Formulation and Evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of a Chemical Sunscreen Containing Molecularly Distilled Heavy Fraction Patchouli Oil
DOI:
10.29303/jppipa.v11i12.13535Published:
2025-12-25Downloads
Abstract
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates the level of protection that a sunscreen formulation provides against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The heavy fraction patchouli oil obtained via molecular distillation contains 90.48% patchouli alcohol, which exhibits antioxidant activity. This study aimed to determine the SPF value of the heavy fraction patchouli oil and to evaluate the characteristics and SPF values of emulgel-based chemical sunscreens. Patchouli oil demonstrated an in vitro SPF of 37.63, classified as ultra-protection. Sunscreen formulations were prepared using the beaker method, with patchouli oil incorporated at varying concentrations, including 0% (control), 0.25% (F1), 0.5% (F2), and 1% (F3). The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical characteristics, stability, and skin safety. They exhibited an opaque white to ivory color, with a pH range of 5.2 to 6.4, viscosity between 2011 and 2924 cPs, spread ability of 4 to 6 cm, adhesion time of 5.38 to 8.28 seconds, and an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion type. The SPF values of the sunscreen formulations ranged from 8.85 to 29.02, with F3 achieving an SPF of 29.02 and classified as ultra-protection. All formulations met the established quality standards, remained stable during storage, and caused no irritation in human volunteers. These findings indicate that the heavy fraction of patchouli oil has great potential as an active ingredient for chemical sunscreen products.
Keywords:
Chemical sunscreen Heavy fraction patchouli oil Patchouli alcohol Sun protection factor UV radiationReferences
Antari, E. D., Nafisah, U., Dewi, W. E. R., & Muna, K. (2023). Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan pada Hidrosol Sereh Wangi (Cymbopogon Nardus). Jurnal Pharmascience, 10(2), 288-295. Retrieved from https://ppjp.ulm.ac.id/journal/index.php/pharmascience/article/view/15193/9555 DOI: https://doi.org/10.20527/jps.v10i2.15193
Angraini, N. D. P., Pramukantoro, G. E., Novita, M., & Marlina, D. (2025). Kuantifikasi Flavonoid dan Analisis Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Daun Nilam (Pogostemon Cablin), Menggunakan Uji DPPH. Jurnal Teknik Kima USU, 14(2), https://doi.org/10.32734/jtk.v14i2.20795 DOI: https://doi.org/10.32734/jtk.v14i2.20795
Avianka, V., Mardhiani, Y. D., & Santoso, R. (2022). Studi Pustaka Peningkatan Nilai SPF (Sun Protection Factor) pada Tabir Surya dengan Penambahan Bahan Alam. Jurnal Sains dan Kesehatan, 4(1), 79-88. Retrieved from https://jsk.ff.unmul.ac.id/index.php/JSK/article/view/338 DOI: https://doi.org/10.25026/jsk.v4i1.664
Chandra, D., & Rahmah, R. (2022). Uji Fisikokiimia Sediaan Emulsi, Gel, Emulgel Ekstrak Etanol Goji Berry (Lycium Barbarum L.). MEDFARM Jurnal Farmasi dan Kesehatan, 11(2), 219–228. https://doi.org/10.48191/medfarm.v11i2.142 DOI: https://doi.org/10.48191/medfarm.v11i2.142
Dewi, C. C., & Saptarini, N. M. (2016). Review Artikel: Hidroksi Propil Metil Selulosa Dan Karbomer Serta Sifat Fisikokimianya Sebagai Gelling Agent. Farmika, 14(3). https://doi.org/10.24198/jf.v14i3.8593
Feng, X. X., Yu, X. T., Li, W. J., Kong, S. Z., Liu, Y. H., Zhang, X., Xian, Y. F., Zhang, X. J., Su, Z. R., & Lin, Z. X. (2014). Effects of topical application of patchouli alcohol on the UV-induced skin photoaging in mice. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 63(1), 113–123. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2014.07.001. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2014.07.001
Fields, J. M. (2020). Dangers of Scientific Bias Against Herbal Drugs for Coronavirus Disease 2019. Journal Integr Med, 18(6), 459-461. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.joim.2020.09.005 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.joim.2020.09.005
Firmansyah, F., Temarwut, F. F., Topile, N. K., & Sudirman, S. (2023). Formulasi dan Uji Efek Analgetik Emulgel Minyak Kayu Putih (Oleum Melaleuca Cajeputi) dengan Gelling Agent Carbopol 940. Pharmacology and Pharmacy Scientific Journal, 2(2), 75-84. https://doi.org/10.51577/papsjournals.v2i2.467 DOI: https://doi.org/10.51577/papsjournals.v2i2.467
Garg, A. D., Ggarwal, S.G., & Sigla, A.K. (2002). Spreading of Semisolid Formulation. USA: Pharmaceutical Technology.
Geoffrey K, Mwangi AN, & Maru SM. (2019). Sunscreen products: Rationale for use, Formulation Development and Regulatory Considerations. Saudi Pharm Journal, 27(7), 1009-1018. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jsps.2019.08.003 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jsps.2019.08.003
Gulhan, B., Kanik-Yuksek, S., Hayran, M., & Ozkaya-Parlakay, A. (2019). Infections in Pediatric Burn Patients: An Analysis of One Hundred Eighty-One Patients,” Surg Infect (Larchmt), 21(4). https://doi.org/10.1089/sur.2019.010 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1089/sur.2019.010
Guenther E. (2019). Minyak Atsiri. UI-Press
Halid, N. H. A., Rahmawati, R., & Rahmaniar, D.(2023). Formulasi dan Evaluasi Sediaan Emulgel Tabir Surya Kombinasi Ekstrak Daun Kopi Robusta (Coffe Canephora) dan Daging Lidah Buaya (Aloe Vera L.). Majalah Farmasi dan Farmokologi, 27(4). Retrieved from https://journal.unhas.ac.id/index.php/mff/article/view/30049
Handayani, M., Mita, N., & Ibrahim, A. (2015). Formulasi Dan Optimasi Basis Emulgel Carbopol 940 Dan Trietanolamin Dengan Berbagai Variasi Konsentrasi. Proceeding of Mulawarman Pharmaceuticals Conferences, 1(1), 53–60. https://doi.org/10.25026/mpc.v1i1.8. DOI: https://doi.org/10.25026/mpc.v1i1.8
Hardiansyah, S. C., & Mawarni, C. S. (2023). Pengaruh Konsentrasi Minyak Atsiri Serai Wangi (Cymbopogonnardus) Terhadap Stabilitas Formulasi Sediaan Emulgel. Jurnal Kesehatan Jurnal Ilmuah Multi Sciences, 13(1), 48-55. https://doi.org/10.52395/jkjims.v13i1.362 DOI: https://doi.org/10.52395/jkjims.v13i1.362
Hasbiah, S. N., Apriyana, A. E. P., & Dipahayu, D. (2023). Formulasi dan Uji Stabilitas Fisik Krim Tabir Surya Nanoenkapsul Ekstrak Daun Ubi Jalar Ungu (Ipomoea batatas L.) Varietas Antin-3. Jurnal Sains dan Kesehatan, 5(5), 716–722. https://doi.org/10.25026/jsk.v5i5.2068. DOI: https://doi.org/10.25026/jsk.v5i5.2068
Insuk, S., Kittirattanasak, S., Sirithongkaset, M., & Chiewchantanakit, D. (2025). The use of Health and Herbal Products for COVID-19 Self-Prevention and its Affecting Factors According to Theory of Planned Behavior. The Thai Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 49(2). https://doi.org/10.56808/3027-7922.3002 DOI: https://doi.org/10.56808/3027-7922.3002
Iriani, F. A., Dehi, R. I., & Damar, A. C. (2022). Uji Mutu Fisik Emulgel Kulit Kayu Manis (Cinnammomun Burmanii) dan Kulit Jeruk Purut (Citrus Hystrix). Jurnal Multidisiplin Madani, 2(10), 3767-3771. https://doi.org/10.55927/mudima.v2i10.1449 DOI: https://doi.org/10.55927/mudima.v2i10.1449
Isnaini, N., Khairan, K., Faradila, M., & Sufriadi, E. (2022). Evaluation of Physical Quality of Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) Body Butter Formulation. Journal of Patchouli and Essential Oil Products, 1(1), 22-26. https://doi.org/10.24815/jpeop.v1i1.23762 DOI: https://doi.org/10.24815/jpeop.v1i1.23762
Janet, W. (2023). Dangers Associated with the use of Traditional Herbal Medicine in Treating COVID-19. International Journal of Bioscience and Biochemistry, 5(2), 30-32. https://doi.org/10.33545/26646536.2023.v5.i2a.57 DOI: https://doi.org/10.33545/26646536.2023.v5.i2a.57
Laksmono, J. A., Agustian, E., & Adilina, I. B. (2007). Patchouli Alcohol Enrichment From Patchouli Oil Using Molecular Distillation Unit. J. Tek. Ind. Pert, 17(3), 74-79. Retrieved from https://repository.ipb.ac.id/jspui/bitstream/123456789/40484/1/Patchouli%20Alcohol%20Enrichment_hal74.pdf
Larasati, R. D., Khoirunnisa, D. E., Tugon, T. D. A., & Zulkaida, Z. (2023). Formulasi Emulgel Minyak Biji Pala (Myristica Fragans) Sebagai Antioksidan: Emulgel Formulation of Seed Nutmeg Oil (myristica Fragans) as Antioxidant. Medical Sains Jumlah Ilmiah Kefarmasian, 8(1), 107-116. https://doi.org/10.37874/ms.v8i1.595 DOI: https://doi.org/10.37874/ms.v8i1.595
Lee, H. S., Lee, J., Smolensky, D., & Lee, S. H. (2020). Potential benefits of patchouli alcohol in prevention of human diseases: A mechanistic review. Int Immunopharmacol, 89(1). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.intimp.2020.107056 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.intimp.2020.107056
Lumayung, C., Aldila, S., Kalsum, U., & Saptawati, T. (2023). Pengaruh Konsentrasi Gelling Agent Carbomer 940 Terhadap Karakteristik Fisik Orabase Emulgel Nistatin. JK: Jurnal Kesehatan, 1(5), 669–683. Retrieved from https://jurnalkesehatan.joln.org/index.php/health/article/view/73
Matsui, M. S., Hsia, A. H., Miller, J. D., & Hanneman, K. (2009). Non-Sunscreen Photoprotection: Antioxidants Add Value to a Sunscreen. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 14(1), 56-59. https://doi.org/10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14
Muhammad, S., Hisbullah H, Rahmi, J., Ritonga, F. N, & Prajaputra, V. (2022). Vacuum Distillation of Aceh Patchouli Oil into Hi-Grade and Crystal Patchouli with Rotary Vacuum Evaporator. Journal of Patchouli and Essential Oil Products, 1(2), 36-41. http://doi.org/10.24815/jpeop.v1i2.25408 DOI: https://doi.org/10.24815/jpeop.v1i2.25408
Nafissa, N., Isnaini, N., Desiyana, L. S., Prajaputra, V., Harnelly, E., Zulkarnain, Z., & Maryam, S. (2023). Antiaging Mechanism of Natural Plant Sources: A Potential Current Product. Journal of Patchouli and Essential Oil Products, 2(2), 41-47. https://doi.org/10.24815/jpeop.v2i2.37929
Nurfitri, L., & Endriyatno, N. C. (2023). Formasi dan Evaluasi Krim Ekstrak Daun Pandan Wangi (Pandanus Amaryllifolius Roxb.) dengan Variasi Konsentrasi AsamStearat dan Trietanolamin. Pharma Xplore Jurnal Sains dan Ilmu Farmasi, 8(2), 166-180. https://doi.org/10.36805/jpx.v8i2.5932 DOI: https://doi.org/10.36805/jpx.v8i2.5932
Pratiwi, T. B., Nurbaeti, S. N., Ropiqa, M., Fajriaty, I., Nugraha, F., & Kurniawan, H. (2023). Uji Sifat Fisik pH Dan Viskositas Pada Emulsi Ekstrak Bintangur (Calophyllum soulattri Burm. F.). Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Education, 3(2). https://doi.org/10.37311/ijpe.v3i2.19466. DOI: https://doi.org/10.37311/ijpe.v3i2.19466
Pratasik, M. C. K., Yamlean, V. Y., & Wiyono, W. I. (2019). Formulasi Dan Uji Stabilitas Fisik Sediaan Krim Ekstrak Etanol Daun Sesewanua (Clerodendron Squamatum Vahl.). Pharmacon, 8(2), 261. https://doi.org/10.35799/pha.8.2019.29289 DOI: https://doi.org/10.35799/pha.8.2019.29289
Putra, M. M., Dewantara, I. G. N. A., & Swastini, D. A. (2014). Pengaruh Lama Penyimpanan Terhadap Nilai Ph Sediaan Cold Cream Kombinasi Ekstrak Kulit Buah Manggis (Garcinia Mangostana L.), Herba Pegagan (Centella Asiatica) Dan Daun Gaharu (Gyrinops Versteegii (Gilg) Domke. Jurnal Farmasi Udayana, 3(1). Retrieved from https://ojs.unud.ac.id/index.php/jfu/article/view/10796
Putri, I. A., & Mahfur, M. (2023). Skrining Fitokimia dan Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Etanol 70% Batang Nilam (Pogostemon Cablin Benth.) dengan Metode DPPH. Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Clinical Research (IJPSCR), 1(2), 1-16. Retrieved from https://journal.upy.ac.id/index.php/ijpscr/article/view/4915/3339
Rachmatillah, A., Hasni, D., & Aisyah, Y. (2021). Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan Minyak Sereh Wangi (Cymbopogon nardus (L.) Rendle), Minyak Nilam (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) dan Minyak Pala (Myristica fragrans Houtt). Jurnal Ilmiah Mahasiswa Pertanian, 6(4), 442-446. https://doi.org/10.17969/jimfp.v6i4.18245 DOI: https://doi.org/10.17969/jimfp.v6i4.18245
Ramba, W. Y., Sahumena, M. H., & Nasir, N. H. (2023). Formulasi Sediaan Masker Gel Peel-Off Ekstrak Etanol Kulit Buah Pisang Kepok (Musa paradisiaca L.) Sebagai Antioksidan. Jurnal Pharmacia Mandala Waluya, 2(1), 43-55. https://dx.doi.org/10.54883/28296850.v2i1.197 DOI: https://doi.org/10.54883/28296850.v2i1.197
Rahmayanti, M., Nastiti, G. P., & Fitri, M. A. (2023). Formulasi dan Uji Stabilitas Sediaan Hair Emulsion Minyak Biji Chia (Salvia hispanica) dengan Kombinasi Tween 80 dan Span 80 Sebagai Emulgator. Jurnal Mandala Pharmacon Indonesia, 9(1), 10-19. https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi.v9i1.356. DOI: https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi.v9i1.356
Rachbini, W., Anggraeni, D., & Febrina, D. (2020). Effect of Service Quality on Customer Loyalty through Satisfaction, Perceived Value, and Customer Engagements (Study on Indonesian Ride-Hailing Online). Advances in Social Sciences Research Journal, 7(10), 300-310. https://doi.org/10.14738/assrj.710.9204 DOI: https://doi.org/10.14738/assrj.710.9204
Rakhma, D. N., Najih, Y. A., & Pratiwi, E. (2020). Pengaruh Rasio Karbomer dan HPMC Terhadap Karakteristik dan Stabilitas Fisik Emulgel Minyak Ikan Salmon. Journal of Pharmacy and Science, 5(2), 43-47. https://doi.org/10.53342/pharmasci.v5i2.171 DOI: https://doi.org/10.53342/pharmasci.v5i2.171
Resende, D. I. S. P., Jesus, A., Lobo, J. M. S., Sousa, E., Cruz, M. T., Cidade, H., & Almeida, I. F. (2022). Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens. Pharmaceuticals, 15(3), 372. https://doi.org/10.3390/ph15030372 DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/ph15030372
Rustiani E., Andini, S., & Apriani, M. (2021). Formulasi Sediaan Emulgel Ekatrak Etanol 70% Daun Talas (Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott) Dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Karbopol 940. Jurnal Farmasi, 2(1). https://doi.org/10.37013/jf.v2i1.150
Saputri, M., Razali, M., Sari, N., Nadia, S., & Anggreini, D. (2024). Mengenal Lebih Dekat Nilai SPF (Sun Protecting Factor) Dalam Kosmetik. Jurnal Pengabdian Masyarakat Tjut Nyak Dhien, 3(1), 32-38. Retrieved from https://journal.utnd.ac.id/index.php/JPMTND/article/view/1008 DOI: https://doi.org/10.36490/jpmtnd.v3i1.1008
Shintyawati, D., Widiastuti, R., & Sulistyowati, R. (2024). Formulasi Dan Uji Stabilitas Fisik Emulgel Ekstrak Daun Binahong (Anredera Cordifolia) Sebagai Tabir Surya. Forte Journal, 4(1), 1–12. https://doi.org/10.51771/fj.v4i1.626 DOI: https://doi.org/10.51771/fj.v4i1.626
Standar Nasional Indonesia (SNI). (2006). Petunjuk Pengujian Organoleptik dan atau Sensori. Retrieved from https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/sni-01-23462006-petunjuk-pengujian-organoleptik-dan-atau-sensori/53474826
Suci, D. B., Ariastuti, R., & Qonitah, F. (2025). Antioxidant Activity Test of Purple Passion Fruit Peel Extract (Passiflora Edulis Sims) Using the DPPH Method. ICEETE Conference Series, 3(1), 389-394. https://doi.org/10.36728/iceete.v3i1.267 DOI: https://doi.org/10.36728/iceete.v3i1.267
Suciyani, S. A., Aryani, R., & Darma, G. C. E. (2020). Studi Literatur Emulgel sebagai Pembawa Agen Tabir Surya Alami Senyawa Golongan Flavonoid. Prosiding Farmasi, 6(2). https://doi.org/10.29313/v6i2.24258
Sofia, M., & Minerva, P. (2021). Hubungan Tingkat Pengetahuan Bahaya Paparan Sinar Matahari Dengan Penggunaan Sunscreen oleh Mahasiswa Kepelatihan Olahraga Angkatan 2018 Universitas Negeri Padang. Jurnal Pendidikan Tambusai, 5(3), 7596-7603. Retrieved from https://jptam.org/index.php/jptam/article/download/2156/1928/4525
Tang, X., Yang, T., Yu, D., Xiong, H., & Zhang, S. (2024). Current insights and future perspectives of ultraviolet radiation (UV) exposure: Friends and foes to the skin and beyond the skin. Environment International, 185(2), 108535. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2024.108535 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2024.108535
Viena, V., Elvitriana, E., Sartika, Z., & Patra, D. (2020). Improvement of Gayo Lues Patchouli Oil Alcohol Quality with Absorbent Cariations of Juice and Purut Orang Peel (Citrus Hystrix). Serambi Journal of Agricultural Technology, 2(2). https://doi.org/10.32672/sjat.v2i2.2470 DOI: https://doi.org/10.32672/sjat.v2i2.2470
Utami, S. A., & Lubis, M. S. (2024). Irritation and Acceptability Test of Salicylic Acid Gel Preparations Using Karbopol-940 Base. Pharmouho: Jurnal Farmasi, Sains dan Kesehatan, 10(1), 300-310. https://doi.org/10.33772/pharmauho.v10i1.67.
Waglewska, E., & Bazylińska, U. (2021). Biodegradable Amphoteric Surfactants in Titration-Ultrasound Formulation of Oil-in-Water Nanoemulsions: Rational Design, Development, and Kinetic Stability. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 22(21), 11776. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms222111776. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms222111776
Wulandari, A., Rustianti, E., Andini, S., & Sinaga, D. (2023). Formulasi Sediaan Emulgel Ekstrak Daun Ungu Dengan Penambahan Bioenhancer Ekstrak Lidah Buaya. Jurnal Fitofarmaka Indonesia, 10(1), 19-34. https://doi.org/10.33096/jffi.v9i2.864. DOI: https://doi.org/10.33096/jffi.v9i2.864
Yetkin, D., Ince, T., & Ayaz, F. (2022). Photodynamic Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Azulene Derivatives on Mammalian Macrophages and Their Intracellular Mechanism of Action. Photodiagnosis and Photodynamic, 39(1), 102963. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pdpdt.2022.102963 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pdpdt.2022.102963
License
Copyright (c) 2025 Nadia Isnaini, Fajar Fakri, Vicky Prajaputra, Hanifa Rifdah Aiman, Novi Kurnia Rizki

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Authors who publish with Jurnal Penelitian Pendidikan IPA, agree to the following terms:
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (CC-BY License). This license allows authors to use all articles, data sets, graphics, and appendices in data mining applications, search engines, web sites, blogs, and other platforms by providing an appropriate reference. The journal allows the author(s) to hold the copyright without restrictions and will retain publishing rights without restrictions.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgment of its initial publication in Jurnal Penelitian Pendidikan IPA.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).






